For industry experts, Lombok has been a destination-in-waiting for at least 20 years – if not longer. The slightly smaller island to Bali’s east has always been overshadowed by its hugely popular neighbour.

There have been many false starts and land speculation in Southern Lombok has been going on for at least as long as investors impatiently waited for the boom that never came. However, I believe the time has finally arrived to rethink Lombok. I would even go so far as to say that Lombok is now a perfect standalone roundtrip destination – ideal for those seeking nature, diversity and beach life.

I had the chance to travel to Lombok this summer and revisit many of the places that, only a few years ago, had a rough edge to them. Today, these places are evolving into a mix of hip surf towns reminiscent of Canggu, to polished Nusa Dua-style resort areas – or my favourite, boutique resorts embedded in nature and culture.

Lombok has direct international flights from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur and many domestic flight options but most of us travel, like me, from Bali. It is only a short 30-minute hop. However, the only airline currently operating five daily flights is Wings Air, part of Lion Air, which is not exactly known for great service. I recommend booking flights early, especially during the busy summer months as seats get fully booked quickly.

Another option is by ferry or speedboat, which can get adventurous when the sea gets rough. I strongly recommend not cutting costs when it comes to transportation in Indonesia. I travelled on Ekajaya Fast Ferries’ newest vessel, which was exceptionally comfortable and punctual. Its larger size – accommodating up to 260 passengers – and enhanced horsepower made for a much smoother journey. Compared to the smaller, older nutshells still operating, this is a major upgrade. The other operator we recommend is Bluewater Express.

The North of Lombok is covered by lush rainforest and is dominated by 3,726-metre-high Mount Rinjani. This is the perfect place for some gentle waterfall hikes and getting a glimpse into traditional Sasak (Lombok) culture. When I visited one of the traditional villages in the area, I attended a funeral ceremony where I noticed striking similarities to Balinese Hindu traditions. It always fascinates me how effortless Indonesians can weave Islam with the religions that preceded it.

There are many hotel options to choose from in the north of the island. Senggigi has some excellent accommodation choices but this area has not yet recovered from the COVID-19 pandemic. A 20-minute drive further north, the coastal Sire vicinity offers some great upmarket hotels like The Sira, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Lombok, a new Marriott property, as well timeless icons like the The Oberoi Beach Resort, Lombok.

The Sira, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Lombok

The Oberoi Beach Resort, Lombok

What is very noticeable and refreshing when coming from Bali is the lack of traffic. Thanks to wider roads, even in the high season, you won’t face a Bali-style gridlock. A drive from north to south takes about two hours, compared to the three to six hours it might take on Bali.

The South of Lombok offers a completely different landscape – much drier, with savannah-like hills that give space to stunning beaches, which are some of the best anywhere. There are also amazing cliff sides which reminded me more of Australia or Portugal then South-East Asia.

Did I get your attention? If not, let me mention that we are adding some very charming boutique resorts to our product portfolio after my inspection. We’ve also discovered some surprisingly good restaurants in the south of the island, either overlooking the beach or in Kuta, the main town in the area.

I also inspected the government-owned Mandalika resort zone again which is especially liked by Asian guests and groups as it features branded and bigger modern hotels like the Pullman Lombok Merujani Mandalika Beach Resort.

Pullman Lombok Merujani Mandalika Beach Resort

I spent the last evening in the area at Tanjung Aan, probably the most beautiful bay with powdery white sand. It has so far been only home to a few beach huts. However, development is coming quickly, as I discovered the next morning. Bulldozers had cleared the huts to clear space for a US$120 million resort development, financed by Japanese investors, as the area is being added to the Mandalika resort zone.

I am not here to judge these developments. I think there is enough space for every kind of traveller and profile in Lombok. An ideal Lombok itinerary combines both the north and south and includes one speedboat ride – which arrives and departs from the north – and one flight, the airport is conveniently located in the south, just 20 to 30 minutes from Kuta or Mandalika with an – for Indonesia – excellent road network.

Finally, let me add a few words about the famous Gili islands which I also revisited. It makes sense to combine the speedboat ride with a visit to one of these small islands. Gili Trawangan, long synonymous with parties, magic mushrooms and backpackers, still caters to this market but is slowly upgrading itself with the new Cocana Resort – a stylish cool beach club and resort in the north of the island.

Cocana Resort Gili Trawangan

Gili Meno is still the quietest of the three islands but is also massively upgrading itself with the amazing Bask Resort, which can compete with the best anywhere in the world in terms of accommodation, style and F&B. Best of all, these new resorts somehow manage to preserve the vibe of the islands.

At Asian Trails Indonesia, we’ll certainly be watching these developments closely. Stay tuned for further updates on Lombok and the islands beyond!

Björn Schimanski
Managing Director, Asian Trails Indonesia